Protective hairstyles have long served as both a form of expression and a necessity for Black women. Though protective styles are deeply rooted in African culture, they’re often creatively reimagined by the stylish women who wear them in the present day. It’s why there’s never a shortage of options to choose from, no matter whether it’s boho box braids or french curls.

Recently, Koroba and Kipetaka braids (also known as swirl, basket, and spiral braids) have emerged as niche protective hairstyles, reimagined by various braiders. While well-known by West Africans, these styles were previously less common among Black women in America. But that’s rapidly changing, with more and more prominent personalities sporting these looks. Take Amandla Stenberg, who wore a fusion of the styles for her appearance at the Acne Studios Spring 2025 runway show.

Ahead, PS spoke with hairstylist Helena Koudou along with model and influencer Kayra Theodore to learn more about the history and rising popularity of these braids, plus what you need to know if you want to try them.

Helena Koudou is a hairstylist at Slayed In Braids based in Brooklyn, NY.

Kayra Theodore is a model and influencer who specializes in hair content.